| I miss a lot of things during the winter: biking, camping, golfing – but mostly I miss hanging out on the deck and drinking. Sure drinking inside is fine – it’s better than not drinking at all – but there’s something special about having a cold beer or a glass of wine and watching the smoke billow off the grill.
Barbecuing is a tradition in Calgary and has become an intrinsic part of our western culture. And while beer has always played a big role in the barbecue ritual (and I’m certainly not about to denounce it, as I’ve been known to partake in the odd one), when it comes to laying down the classic western spread, a few bottles of the right wine can make all the difference.
Warmer weather usually leads to simple food: chickens spinning on the rotisserie, seared steaks and fresh veggies on the grill with simple salads tossed on the side. For food like this, I like to stick to cushy, easy-going and affordable wines – the kind where you can open up a few without worrying about how much you spent. While just about every country offers some wines in this category, I usually stick to the warmer climates, the ones generous in fruit and spice without the big tannins. So here’s a guide to get you started, guaranteed to keep a smile on your face even when the smoke gets in your eyes.
California is back on the map with some strong value-priced wines. I was touring through the Napa Valley in the late afternoon when a familiar scent hit my nose; it was the scent of barbecue – not the kind we’re used to up here, but the traditional southern slow-roasted variety. I quickly sniffed out the joint, which consisted of a couple of outdoor tables and a large smoker manned by a fellow named Buster. He looked the part and seemed to know what he was doing, so I sat down and ordered up a glass of red from his one-wine list. The wine was an inexpensive syrah called Castle Rock – simple but delicious – and turned out to be the perfect companion for Buster’s generous meal. Castle Rock is a new line offering all the standard Californian varietals, but the syrah ($14.95) packed with its ripe plum, smoke and black cherries, is probably your best bet for the weekend protein assault.
The 2003 vintage in the South of France was a scorcher and there is no shortage of great wine, but the Cuvée de Pena ($13.50) is a standout. It hails from the region just above the Pyrenees Mountains, which separate France from Spain. Here Carignane, Grenache and Mourvedre combine for a generous offering packed with sweet raspberry followed by a rustic, spicy finish. I’m thinking pork chops – and not the skinny ones!
Australians may be the only people who can rival Albertans when it comes to a good barbecue, so it’s no surprise they have a wine or two to throw in the mix. One of the newest discoveries from Australia is the Heartland series, which includes the Stickleback red ($12.95) and the Heartland shiraz ($17.95). The Stickleback is mostly Cabernet blended with some shiraz and Grenache – it delivers a ton of wine for the money and will stand up admirably to your finest piece of seasoned beef. The straight shiraz is a bit more of a monster with dark chocolate and pepper aromas; its gamey flavors will pair best with lamb, but certainly won’t do any harm to your burgers or hot dogs.
A SICILIAN WINE YOU CAN’T REFUSE
Italy always has some solid entries in this category and this year I’m enjoying what’s coming out of Sicily. This warm and charming island is cranking out some fine juice and not asking for much money in return. Nero d’Avola is the native grape of choice and delivers intense wines with bright, jammy notes on a silky, soft palate. The Firriato Primula ($12.95) is a solid bet with its sun-baked, dried-fruit aromas, and at this price you can afford to plunk down a few on the table.
Central Spain is a veritable "value village" of wine production. The lesser-touted areas like La Mancha and Jumilla are delivering outstanding buys on a consistent basis. The 2003 Bodegas Olivares Panarroz ($13.95) is crafted from Monsatrell, Syrah and Grenache; it boasts intense flavours of black currant, clove and cherries – you won’t believe this wine costs less than $15. Equis ($11.95) is another newcomer from central Spain produced with the local Bobal, Manzuelo, Grenache and Cencibal grapes – and don’t worry, just because you haven’t heard of these doesn’t mean you won’t like the wine. How could you not? Its 35- to 80-year-old vines have pumped out a rich, juicy and delicious wine that will send you back to the kitchen for more before you’ve even flipped the burgers.
Happy grilling! |
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