Vol. 12 #20: Thursday, April 26, 2007
Calgary's News & Entertainment Weekly
FFWD Weekly
FOOD
by TARA MacKINNON
Service with a smile
Surya is a taste of curry heaven
It was raining cats and dogs the night my girlfriend, her two daughters (ages four and seven) and I visited Surya. It was kind of exciting – I had never reviewed a restaurant with children in tow. I was interested in how we would be received. Walking into Surya just off 11th Avenue and 12th Street S.W., we were cheerfully welcomed with a bright smile.

As soon as we got to the table, it was go time for the kids. With a need to occupy their little hands, we asked our server to bring on the pappadum. The crackers, made with rice and lentils, were served with lively tamarind and mint sauces for only $1.00. Light and airy, they were tasty and appeased the younglings.

For appetizers, we sampled the veggie platter ($9.50), a combination of veggie pakoras, samosas and paneer pakora (cottage cheese battered in gram flour) and the onion bhajia ($7.25), rings of fresh onions mixed with garbanzo flour, cilantro, lemon juice and spices. Both were great. I highly recommend the onion bhajia, mildly spicy in taste and vibrantly flavored with lots of lemon and cilantro coming to the forefront of the dish.

Somewhere in between the appetizers and the entreés, the girls started to get a little antsy. We ordered some yummy mango and lychee lemonades ($3) and these seemed to do the trick in tiding them over until our flavour parade was served. Arriving in copper serving bowls alongside fragrant basmati rice and garlicky naan ($2.95), the spread was splendid.

For our first dish, we tried the chicken korma ($12.95). It was nutty and rich, prepared with cashew nuts, white pepper, a mild curry and cardamom. If you like butter chicken and want to try something a little different, this would be a good alternative. For a veggie option, we chose the aloo gobhi ($9.25), cauliflower and potatoes tossed with tomatoes and coriander. It’s a tasty combination, bursting with ginger and spiked with cilantro.

The hit of the table for young and, ahem, old alike, was the prawn malai curry ($12.95). The sumptuous sauce combined coconut milk, ginger, garlic and white pepper. The dish was sweet and satisfying, with an exotic, tropical flavor.

The décor at Surya is unassuming – with simple lighting and richly painted walls in hues of chocolate, lime and tan, the space is basic and sparsely adorned with cultural prints. What is truly stunning at this East Indian restaurant is the service. Our server for the evening was fantastic. He was friendly, polite and completely accommodating to the needs of the younger guests.

We ended our meal at Surya with a lovely rice pudding ($4). The table was astounded that I had never tried rice pudding before and insisted I order the sweet combination of starch and cream. Heading back into the miserable rain after our experience at Surya, I couldn’t help but feel happy. Stepping out of a puddle and into my car, I was reminded of how heartwarming a nice meal with good company and great service can make you feel.

Surya is located at #101-1207 11th Avenue S.W.; phone, 290-1777.

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