They've done it to us again. Two weeks ago, while reviewing the breakfast buffet at Traders Grill in the Marriott Hotel, I surmised that both tourists and travelling business people have been keeping secrets from the Calgarians. Well, after a trip to botaniCa, located in the Radisson Hotel on 16th Ave. N.E., I've come to realize that we've been duped again.
Before I recount my dining experience, I would be remiss if I didn't share a quick story about my first trip to botaniCa. A few months ago, I was fortunate enough to have received an invitation to a preview sampling of botaniCa's forthcoming menu. For that occasion, the staff had set up in the foyer of the hotel. Food stations were located around the perimeter, and servers walked around offering samples.
When I arrived, I was able to sample a few dishes, including the smoked duck and brie quesadillas, which were great. One of the stations that evening featured a pasta dish that was being splashed with ouzo and then lit on fire before plating. Well, the chef manning that station decided to show off a bit for two ladies, adding just a wee bit too much alcohol. When he lit it on fire, a giant flame lit up the room, followed by a burst of smoke.
Within seconds a fire alarm went off, and minutes later, the lobby was filled with firefighters while the food tasters were sent outside. I figured that was my cue and headed on home. If nothing else, it certainly made for a memorable experience.
The few samples that I was able to try that day were definitely of enough quality to warrant a return visit. One of the dishes I was unable to sample during the sneak preview was the ribs. When I think of hotel food, I don't really think of ribs. However, a few people had commented on them during the preview, so I thought I would head down on a Thursday — rib night — and give them a try.
BotaniCa is built in a nice, big, open room decorated in energetic oranges, browns and greens. Because it’s located in a hotel, botaniCa floats between restaurant and cafeteria, offering both sit-down meals and to-go options for those in a hurry. There’s also a built-in Starbucks if you're in need of a caffeine fix.
For our appetizer, we ordered the maple whiskey scallops ($10.95), wrapped in double-smoked bacon and served with wakame salad and maple-ginger caramel. While there were only two of them on the plate, they were big enough to require more than one bite to eat politely. The scallops were cooked nicely and the bacon was cooked crisp without being burnt.
The ribs are described on the menu as hickory back ribs in a Big Rock barbecue sauce with chef’s vegetables and a choice of baked, mashed or fries ($20.95 for a full rack; $17.95 for a half, or $16.95 and $13.95 on Thursdays). The barbecue sauce was dark and smoky without overpowering the natural flavours of the St. Louis-style pork ribs. While barbecue purists might argue that smoking is the only way to go, these ribs were absolutely falling off the bone and done just right.
I opted for the mashed potatoes, which were good, but not great. The chef’s vegetables were grilled peppers and zucchinis, offering a light balance to an otherwise fairly heavy meal.
My guest had the pad thai ($15.95), consisting of crisp oriental vegetables sautéed in an Asian peanut sauce, served on crisp noodles. The option is available to add chicken, beef or shrimp. I was told that it was very good, and the portion size was generous enough to take some home.
In an unprecedented showing of restraint, I did the same as my guest and didn't even finish my whole rack of ribs, deciding to take the remainder for another day’s lunch (which was really good, too).
That said, I did manage to save room for dessert. We shared the crème brûlée cheesecake ($8.95), which was a standard cheesecake with a faux brûlée topping. It was as good as a standard cheesecake. I often say that life is full of choices, and in retrospect, I made the wrong one — I should have tried the berry crumble. Well, I guess I know what to pick the next time I'm there for a bite.
BotaniCa is located in the Radisson Hotel (2120 16 Ave. N.E.); phone 291-4666.
